Buddhist Aesthetics, Hearty Meals and Lots of Walks
A temple lodging not far from Tokyo scores big (with a few misses) on Booking.com
By Clive France
If you’ve ever longed for tranquility, mountain air, a side of mindfulness and amazing food, then Kakurinbo, a Buddhist temple lodging in Minobusan, could be just the thing. But don’t take my word for it. At the time of writing, Kakurinbo had 670 reviews on the popular accommodation site Booking.com, with an average review score of 9.1. Whether you’re a seasoned traveler seeking the unusual or a newbie hoping to get it right the first time, a quick peak at reviews left by past guests may be the nudge you need to head for the hills.
Great Food…If You Don’t Mind Vegetarian
If your image of temple dining is brown rice masticated in silence, then prepare to be enlightened. Guests rave about the meals served at Kakurinbo, especially the kaiseki shojin ryori dinner, which is described as “sophisticated while using simple and fresh local ingredients,” “presented in such a charming and elegant manner,” and even “served beautifully and well worth its price.”
Kakurinbo’s vegetarian fare can be easily tweaked to cater for guests with dietary restrictions. So it comes as no surprise that vegans, an opinionated bunch at the best of times, have a lot to say. Katherine from Canada remarks, “We were given a vegan dinner and breakfast and the staff was very careful to remember our dietary restrictions.” Kylie from Australia gushes, “We ordered the dinner and breakfast and requested that it be vegan. What was provided was exceptional.” And Danielle from the United States explains, “I’m vegan and they easily catered to that, bringing out multiple dishes with yuba, the tofu skin that Minobu is known for.”
However, not everyone is wowed by Kakurinbo’s vegetarian food. Paula from Italy gripes, “I had dinner and it was just ok. It was served quickly.” Nato from Germany complains that, “Breakfast is not edible and partly spoilt.” And Bland from France denounces the food as “tasteless.” There’s just no pleasing everyone.
Comfortable Rooms…If You Don’t Mind Minimalism
“The room was simple,” remarks one guest. And she ain’t wrong. When it comes to comfort, Kakurinbo leans into simplicity. Each guestroom is furnished with little more than zabuton cushions, a low chabudai table, a clothes stand and a lockable vanity box. Guests sleep in futons on tatami-matted floors. The few essential modern conveniences, such as wall-mounted air conditioners and “washlet” toilets, are unobtrusive and do nothing to detract from the Buddhist aesthetics. Although there is Wi-Fi throughout the property, ample parking and e-bikes to rent, Kakurinbo takes it back to basics, allowing guests to be reminded of the simple pleasures of life.
Based on the reviews of past guests, this minimalist approach, especially the opportunity to curl up inside a futon, is a hit. “The bedding (futon) in our room was super comfortable!” rhapsodizes Teri from the United States, with Katharina from Germany seconding this, saying “the futon bed amazing to sleep on.” Yaxuan from Switzerland goes one further, exclaiming, “The next morning, staying in the comfortable bed, I just don’t want to wake up,” and Mikael from Finland says “the futon-bed was super-comfortable & warm.”
Still, Kakurinbo’s minimalist approach is not for everyone. Occidental men in particular can find traditional Japan challenging. Karl from Australia gives a thumbs-down for the “Ability to sit comfortably in the rooms,” and Mark from Britain gripes that “The futons were a bit uncomfortable for me, as I am a westerner.”
However, the last word in comfort must go to Ngoc Anh-Thu from Germany, who visited in the summer and experienced nature a little too close up. “Sometimes you see some “guests” from the forest running around, even in your room. The staff provides bug repellent if you are not comfortable with it. For us, it was no problem. But you should no in before, that this temple lives in harmony with nature and this includes these things as well. ;)”
Stunning Location…If You Don’t Mind Walking
Nestled in the foothills of the Minami Alps, the village of Minobusan offers breathtaking views and an easy escape from the chaos of modern life. As Samuel from Sweden succinctly puts it, “The location is amazing.”
Kakurinbo stands above the village and is a 15-minute downhill walk from Kuonji, the head temple of Nichiren Buddhism. For many guests, the location is ideal. “…it was in an absolutely beautiful location,” claims Myers from Australia. “This place is in a great location and perfect for winding down. The temples near by are just a short walk distance,” raves Ines from Britain. “This place is a rare find. And it’s minutes away from the main temple, meaning you can walk to the first prayers of the day. Gorgeous walks, wonderful views – all very close by..” drools Ana from Singapore.
The downside to this great location is the uphill walk from the bus stop.
Most people staying at Kakurinbo arrive at JR Minobu Station, some three hours by train from Tokyo, and then take a taxi the last few kilometers. However, some intrepid guests opt to arrive by bus, which drops them in the center of the village. From there, they face the challenge of walking the remaining distance. On Google Maps it looks easy. The reality, as reviews testify, is something else altogether.
“We didn’t realize that we would need to walk a ways with our roller bags up the hill from the bus station,“ says a surprised Eddie from the United States. Tram from Vietnam was also caught out. “It’s a bit of a walk from the bus stop. The instructions to travel by train didn’t mention needing to switch trains and the walk up the hill to the temple is pretty steep so you should travel light,” he exclaims. Amy from Singapore offers some tetchy advice: “Entrance is on a steep hill so better to drive or pack a day pack, best not to be pulling a heavy suitcase from the Minobusan bus stop!”
Authentic Experience…If You Don’t Mind Imperfection
Kakurinbo isn’t your average accommodation and it’s certainly not for everyone. It’s traditional, unaffected and a bit out of the way. But, according to many guest reviews, what it lacks in lavishness, it more than makes up for in authenticity.
Theresa from New Zealand enthuses, “If you want to try something really authentic, add this place to your Japan itinerary!” Kristin from the United States chimes in with “having to ask/figure it out/guess made it feel more authentic and extraordinary.” And Natalja from Italy waxes poetic with, “Very authentic place surrounded with beautiful nature and shrines.” If you crave luxury and convenience, then you’re probably better off looking elsewhere. But if you’re open to Buddhist simplicity, up for challenging walks, and relish good vegetarian grub, Kakurinbo is right up your alley. So pack your sense of adventure, a hearty appetite and some comfy shoes, and prepare for an experience that challenges your perceptions of what it means to truly relax.